I took the overnight train from Helsinki to Lapland, and you should too
Picture this.
It’s a chilly clear night, one of those authentic winter nights that only Nordic countries can deliver. A million stars pierce the blue of the sky, and the moon is casting her glistening light on the snow-laden spruce forest below. The silence is only interrupted by the occasional creaking of branches bending under the weight of their white blanket.
And then suddenly, out of the corner of your eye, appear the long beams of a train chuffing its way through the night and lighting up the wooded expanse. At first glance, most of the train windows appear dark, but if you look carefully, in the shadows you can distinguish the twinkling of eyes wide open and some awe-struck faces looking at the magical scenery outside. And if you look even closer, you will see that all those lucky passengers are in fact inside cosy private cabins, sitting by comfy-looking beds ready to welcome them soon.
I was one of those passengers, and you could easily be one too if you are headed to Finnish Lapland.
How? Simply book a ticket for the overnight train between Helsinki and Lapland, aptly called the Santa Claus Express. I am here to help you make it happen.
All you need to know about the overnight train between Helsinki and Lapland
Contents
Why should you catch the Santa Claus Express from Helsinki to Lapland?
‣ How do you book the Santa Claus Express?
‣ What should you do with your luggage while you wait for your night train?
‣ What level of comfort suits you on a long train ride?
‣ How far in advance should you book your train journey to Lapland?
‣ What should you pack for the overnight journey between Helsinki and Lapland?
‣ Is there food on board?
‣ How early should you show up at the platform for the Santa Claus Express?
Why should you catch the Santa Claus Express from Helsinki to Lapland?
Unless you have a strong dislike for train travel, there are all sorts of solid reasons to hop on the Santa Claus Express.
Let me mention some very compelling ones.
The thrill. Sure, there are plenty of daily flights that can deliver you to Lapland from Helsinki in less than two hours. But no flight will ever match the sense of adventure and the romantic thrill of travelling across a country at night on one of the most evocative forms of transportation. You will see the forest getting progressively snowier right out of your window while being lulled by the rhythmic sound of the train in your warm cabin.
The comfort. It’s no news that trains provide what is arguably the most relaxed form of travel. You won’t be strapped to a seat and will be free to amble around as you please; sit, lie down, take a stroll to the restaurant car, walk the length of the train - some are almost half a kilometre long – the choice is yours. Also, it might be well below freezing out there, but you will never feel cold on a Finnish train (in fact you may have the opposite problem), and every private compartment even has its own thermostat. A proper bed will greet you for the night, equipped with a cosy duvet, sheets, and pillow. And if you opt for a cabin with private bathroom like I did, you will have all the facilities (shower included) at your fingertips.
The sustainability. A trip between Helsinki and Rovaniemi on the Santa Claus Express generates 2.27kg of CO2, while the same trip by plane generates 249.92kg. This alone should make a very compelling argument in favour of the train journey.
The price. I can almost guarantee that this will be a less expensive option than a flight + hotel combo. My ticket cost €222.80 for a two-person cabin with private bathroom and breakfast. This amount provided me with what would have otherwise been a double room in a hotel with breakfast AND two one-way plane tickets with checked-in luggage. Unless I had booked months in advance, I can’t imagine my budget being better off if I had flown instead.
Think you’re too short on time to travel by train? Think again. The journeys from Helsinki to Rovaniemi and from Helsinki to Kolari take respectively around 12 and 14.5 hours. It may sound like a very long time to reach a destination but think about it: since it’s an overnight train you will be sleeping most of the time. What would you be doing on the same night if you decided to fly instead? Also sleeping! The main difference is that you will start the following day at a train station rather than your accommodation. But, depending on how distant your next stop is, you can probably plan your day in a comparable way. For example, we had a rental car waiting for us on the morning of our arrival at Rovaniemi station, and we were able to hit the long Lapland roads not long after leaving our warm train cabin.
The pet, bike, and even car-friendliness. Pets are welcome for a €8 surcharge and there are dedicated cabins for those travelling with furry companions. Some stops are longer and provide the opportunity for dog walking. Bikes can also be carried on board for the same price. Last but not least, should you want to load your own car onto the train, you can do that too, although that will set you back at least an additional €99.
The details of my booking
I caught the train to travel between Helsinki and Rovaniemi.
I travelled on December 14th on InterCity 273.
On November 25th I booked the last available 2-person upstairs cabin with private bathroom and shower. I paid €199 for the whole cabin.
I also pre-ordered the breakfast option called train traveller’s brunch for two people. This included a small rye bread sandwich with lactose-free cheese, lactose-free natural yoghurt with muesli, orange juice, and coffee or tea.
It cost €11.90 per person.Departure was at 11:13 pm and arrival was at 11:03 am, or a few minutes later.
How do you book the Santa Claus Express?
All Finnish trains are operated by government-owned Valtion Rautatiet, commonly known as VR, and tickets can be booked in advance, either:
from the VR website;
from the VR Matkalla app (downloadable from the Apple Store or Google Play);
at vending machines inside train stations;
at a R-Kioski, a Finnish chain of convenience stores.
While some trains accept passengers without reservation (you pay the conductor), long-distance trains like the Santa Claus Express must be booked in advance.
TIP - If you book via the VR website like I did, start by entering your departure and arrival stations, your date of choice, and the number of passengers. Then click on ‘Search for journeys’; the website will display the available day trains and their prices. But tick the ‘Show cabin prices and night trains’ box and the overnight options will appear; there will also be a list of the lowest prices across the week, so you can change your date selection if you identify a more economical alternative that still suits your travel schedule.
What should you do with your luggage while you wait for your night train?
You’ll likely have a few hours to kill in Helsinki if you’re catching the overnight train for Lapland: with the earliest train leaving at 7:29 pm and the latest one at 11:13 pm, you may have a full day ahead - and often an evening - before your train opens its doors at the train station.
While finding ways to keep busy in Helsinki shouldn’t be an issue (you can find some ideas in my city guide), lugging your suitcases around the city for hours could be. There are several options available to avoid letting your bags ruin what could be a fantastic day in a fantastic city.
These are your choices:
If you spend the previous night in Helsinki, the simplest thing to do is ask your accommodation to store your luggage after check-out. Most larger establishments have 24-hour staffed receptions and dedicated storage rooms for that very purpose; however, if you're staying at a smaller hotel or a guesthouse, it's worth confirming that they offer this service and that someone will be available to assist you, especially if you plan to collect your luggage later in the evening. In self-catering accommodations, chances are you won’t be able to leave your bags after check-out.
Some hotels offer a ‘timing package’ that allows you to choose your check-in and check-out times as long as you stay within a certain time frame, usually 12 hours. For instance, if you didn’t spend the previous night there, you could book a room from 11 am to 11 pm. Or, if you did spend the night at the hotel, you can extend your stay for an additional 12 hours and check out by 11 pm. This is the option I recommend the most, especially if you're travelling in winter. It means that during the day you can count on a space to relax and find shelter from the cold, and also you can freshen up, change clothes, or reorganize your luggage before heading to the station for your train.
I must admit I wouldn't know about this service if I hadn't stayed at Clarion Hotel Mestari - my go-to spot whenever I’m in Helsinki - and asked for a late checkout. On both my trips to Lapland I bought the hotel's ‘timing package’ for an additional €39, which allowed me to keep my room until 11 pm on checkout day. I checked out at 10:30 pm, walked to the station (only 10/15 minutes away), and caught my train at 11:13 pm. No stress, no rush. You could do much worse than doing exactly the same. Their rooms are modern yet cosy and inviting, with irresistibly comfortable beds (even for a fussy sleeper like me), adjustable heating, and private bathrooms complete with luxurious walk-in showers, even in the standard rooms. In true Nordic fashion, their buffet breakfast is an indulgent feast (make sure you try the smoothies!), and I always find it hard to resist going back for a third or even fourth helping. I usually book my room through Expedia to snag the best deal, then reach out to Hotel Mestari’s customer service to add the timing package to my reservation.
VR operates luggage lockers on the basement level of Helsinki railway station. It is a fully automated system that accepts only card payments and is available between 6 am and midnight. The price depends on the size of the locker you require and on how long you leave your luggage, but it’s a pretty efficient system that allows you to collect your bags right before boarding your overnight train.
What level of comfort suits you on a long train ride?
The Santa Claus Express is a double-decker modern train that offers its passengers the following three options:
1) A simple seat (starting at €43.60). The most economical choice if travelling solo, but not necessarily if travelling in a couple or group. It is for extremely budget-conscious solo travellers who can sleep anywhere. After years of attempts on flights, I have accepted that I simply can’t fall asleep unless I am in a completely horizontal position, so I didn’t consider this option at all. Also, I was travelling with my husband.
2) A downstairs private cabin with a bunk bed for two people and a sink (starting at €49 for two people sharing). Facilities such as bathroom and shower are shared. Individual reservations are not possible on the same cabin, so solo travellers would need to book a whole cabin. This is a good travel option if you don’t mind sharing facilities (which, I have read, are kept extremely clean), but it may come with the noise from other passengers opening and closing doors to use the bathrooms during the night. Earplugs may come in handy.
3) An upstairs private cabin with a bunk bed for two people and ensuite bathroom and shower (starting at €69 for two people sharing). Again, solo travellers would need to book the entire cabin. This is how I travelled, and I couldn’t recommend it enough. It usually works out as €20 more than a downstairs cabin, but the convenience and privacy of an ensuite bathroom is worth a lot more in my opinion.
The overall flavour of the cabins is a little on the utilitarian/modern side, with bright overhead lights and a white and pea-green colour scheme, but there’s no denying that a lot of thought has been given to the functionality of the space. There are hangers, a mirror, space for luggage, a little table by the window, and blackout blinds. Beds come with an alarm clock, a power socket, a reading light, and a handy storage cubbyhole.
How far in advance should you book your train journey to Lapland?
Cabin prices grow fairly quickly in the lead-up to Christmas, and the fares advertised on the VR website can look very different from the starting €49 of a private cabin. Also, in the same period, despite the busier schedule, overnight trains tend to be fully booked two or three weeks in advance. I booked the last available upstairs cabin three weeks before the date of my journey, and paid €199, well more than double the starting price of €69.
What should you pack for the overnight journey between Helsinki and Lapland?
Although there are areas for storing luggage by the doors of each train car, there is usually enough room under the bottom berth to fit most luggage. However, you should pack so that you don’t need to regularly reach your largest suitcases.
Prepare a carry-on with all overnight necessities, such as pyjamas (no need for thick ones, you are likely to be warm), toiletries, and a change of clothes for the following day. You may also want to pack comfortable loungewear and thick socks/slippers for the time you will spend relaxing in the cabin before bedtime. Pack ear plugs if you are a light sleeper, especially if you are staying in one of the downstairs cabins. Towels are provided for the upstairs cabins with ensuite bathroom. Bedding is provided for all the sleeper cabins.
If you feel like watching any movies or tv shows from an electronic device, try to ensure you have them available in off-line mode before the trip. The train has free Wi-Fi, but the connection can be occasionally erratic.
Finally, tap water in the train is not drinkable, so you may want to refill your bottles before the trip. A 0.35L bottle is provided for each person in the cabin, and there is always the possibility of buying more from the bar car.
Is there food on board of the Santa Claus Express train?
There is a bar car for those in need of dinner or a snack, and meals can be delivered to the cabin if the order is placed with the conductor at ticket inspection. However, breakfast needs to be pre-ordered from the VR website. You can do so either during the booking process or by adding it to the online booking up to five days before the journey. There are several breakfast options, including a gluten-free one, and they are delivered to each cabin between two hours and half an hour before the scheduled arrival. Just wait for the knock at the door.
How early should you show up at the platform for the Santa Claus Express?
The efficient Finnish trains won’t wait for you if you are late for your journey. Therefore, I recommend you show up at the beautiful Helsinki railway station at the very least 15 minutes early, which should be enough to let you find your cabin and get settled without stress. If your cabin is towards the front of the train, you will have a little distance to cover on the platform before you reach the right car, and even once inside, you may have to wait for fellow passengers to clear the aisle and let you proceed to your door.
And finally, you will want to make yourself at home and be present and receptive when the train starts moving and your adventure to Lapland begins.